Posted by
whoyg2587 on Friday, November 13, 2009 8:02:35 PM
I strike out along the new Lakeside Way, a thick stripe of stone and
cinders, designed for bikes, boots, even mobility scooters, that loops
right around the reservoir ¡ª 27 miles in all. This southern shore has
been wooing weekenders since Kielder Water was built nearly 30 years
ago, and offers plenty of outdoorsy stuff. You can
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kayak at Hawkhirst Activity Centre, go mountain-biking on Deadwater
Fell, feed the owls at the Bird of Prey Centre and defy death on the
Calvert Trust¡¯s treetop adventure course.
But the weirdness of
the woods is enough for me. Out on Bull Crag Peninsula, I find myself
in a silent grove of spruces, their trunks unnaturally straight and
lofty. Some of the trees are daubed with peculiar runic hieroglyphs,
others with vivid green numerals. Some are just stumps, scythed down in
an apparently random act of butchery. It¡¯s compelling ¡ª but, this
time, it¡¯s not an art installation. This is the everyday business of
pearl jewelry wholesale commercial forestry, and it¡¯s contorted the landscape into a very unsettling place indeed.
Outside
Kielder Observatory, I meet Peter Sharpe, chief curator for the forest
park, who explains how the outdoor art programme here has become the
most eyecatchingly ambitious in the country. With 250 square miles of
forest to play with, why stop at sculpture? Projects such as the
Observatory and Skyspace are daring pieces of contemporary architecture.
¡°Kielder
is a challenging place,¡± Sharpe says, ¡°because it¡¯s designed to
appear as natural as possible, for visitors and for wildlife. Yet the
landscape is profoundly artificial. I think it¡¯s why the art works so
brilliantly here. After a while, you begin to
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notice geometric shapes in the forest, the way the trees have been
lined up for felling. Almost all English countryside is man-made, but
Kielder is a magnification of that. It plays tricks with your mind.¡±